All posts by Katja Henke

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A stormy night with Calima and a crossing with consequences

We had originally planned, to have sailed on Sunday to Tenerife back, but the weather forecast had convinced us, nor to stay another day in La Gomera. On Monday, we really had to go but then, since Uncle Tom's flyer would start towards Manchester on Tuesday morning. Und der nimmt sicherlich keine Rücksicht auf das Wetter 🙂

After the Sunday was actually been pretty calm, then came the hip weather until Sunday night around two-thirty with us on. Strong gusts of wind swept suddenly through the port. What we saw here was Calima, a weather with easterly winds from the Sahara, which can be simplified as "sand wind from Africa" ​​described. From the Sahara comes with an easterly flow dry, warm air and often brings fine sand dust. The view is then clouded. The dust content of the air is warm, dry weather but not pleasant and can easily lead to irritation of the respiratory organs (See Wikipedia).

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Thus, our Uncle Tom was sitting in the middle of the night awake in his cabin and wondered already back and forth, as he could because reached by ferry Tenerife.

However, towards morning the wind died down. So we sat three then pretty tired at half past eight at breakfast together and an hour later we were on the move. The short crossing was actually after the usual scheme. Only too much wind, then great sailing weather, but again not enough wind to sail for high steep wave front. Irgendwie hat man sich mittlerweile fast daran gewöhnt 🙂

Move controlled Dietmar as now during each sailing day the bilge. On the way he had finally figured out, as the water can into the ship. Apparently, the seal of the rudder bearing was defective or even worse. Exact details will report later he himself. I throw intended again the crucial concepts and relationships with each other :-). After a long phone call with the shipyard Schöchl in Austria, he had tried to La Gomera, something to improve. Unfortunately, without success, in fact, it had now become worse. But at least we now have a new huge quality pipe wrench to screw up 150 mm diameter on board, a toy for big boys all :-).

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Thus today remained clear, that we here have to insert in Tenerife a forced break because the boat out of the water must. But we hope to achieve a clean and 100% solution of the problem.

Even if the mood after this realization at the beginning was a bit depressed, we had then but still a funny last night with Uncle Tom in our Japanese master restaurant around the corner. We hope, that it was a good time for him. We enjoyed it anyway.

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For us morning Uncle Tom has to “english breakfast” invited the neighboring town of San Blas. Dann geht es für ihn leider zurück in kalte England 🙂

Now they have broken it :-(

The port of La Gomera seems to be a good training ground training boats. Since we are here, we could already see various training strategies. Zentrales Element der Segelausbildung ist wohl das „Rückwärts Fahren“ unter Motor 🙂

We were able to watch a boat, the import an entire afternoon again and again backwards into the harbor, turned around and went back out again. Since it was an almost giddy while watching. You already said, To see an extended channel there, where the boat went over again along, like a trail.

Another team we noticed particularly because of their high safety awareness. Life jackets are definitely important. It is only the question, if you have to wear them even in the harbor, if at- and drop exercises. Auch das Tragen von Ölzeug und Segelhandschuhen bei 25° und Sonnenschein erschien uns etwas übertrieben 🙂

On Sunday morning the crew of a charter boat practiced in the empty boxes at our dock backward and forward again purely out. I sat at breakfast in exactly the right place and watched the spectacle. Actually saw the whole quite skillfully ... .to the young man at the wheel probably mistook forward and backward and the boat began to swing back against a pontoon. Man, has the gescheppert L Even from a distance you could see, that this was probably assumed not get off so lightly. My two men were equal all ears. Now you some entertainment but first had to keep the same curious and could not dive from the boat.

After the crew had but then again safely moored the boat at the dock, there was no stopping.

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For this charter crew of the holiday ends well before it has even begun. Very sad, because the boys had made a really nice impression. For Dietmar the extent of damage, however, was like water on his mills, as one of its two “ungeliebtesten” Boat brands was affected (and it did not was a Hanseatic :-)). Had we gone the maneuver with our SUMMER, hätte sicher der Steg nachgegeben 🙂

After the morning excitement we gave us quite a leisurely Sunday routine of the island towards. As at midday took off even the Crusader, who had arrived in the early morning, we had the island again for us. So we walked instead of lunch eating an ice cream, because a holiday is not a Proper without creaming for Uncle Tom.

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Before we sail back tomorrow to Tenerife, Dietmar still wanted to address a few little things on the boat. So I had to tinker Mr and made a trip to the beach. Although the water was still quite fresh, but if it was then first inside, ging es schon 🙂 Und die warme Hafendusche war ja direkt ums Eck.

Our last night in La Gomera we left the café on the square in Baraquito and cappuccino finish as well as many of the locals, followed the Sunday evening there along the top match of the Spanish League.

La Gomera the clocks tick or otherwise

Before we set off again Saturday morning with the car on the way, I wanted to quickly buy a few things on the market. Even when leaving the port area you could feel this wonderful lazy weekend mood. Today had somehow all time. The café gentlemen sat together at the first coffee. Not yet a great many, because it was still quite early. Also available on the market it went leisurely. On bread stand chatted merrily, while bread and cakes changed hands. I could since the offer of the 15 Not withstand years on the island live from Switzerland. Fresh brioche and raisin bread was long since gone my way. In the afternoon, even some cake wandered to my shopping basket. So it but not quite as unhealthy approached, I bought then but still sufficient vitamins (associated with fewer calories) in the form of fresh fruit and vegetables.

After breakfast we made our way to Hermigua. Particularly struck us was the old boat davit. Has been in operation since the port of San Sebastian, it was no longer needed and the entire metal structure was 1957 dismantled and sold. Since only are the brick foundations, it is not so easy, imagine, as here earlier bananas were loaded. But in the age of the Internet you need actually no more imagination, man kann einfach „googlen“ 🙂

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How it looks today

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And the sooner

The natural swimming pool, which opened sometime thereafter at this point, has not enforced. The stainless steel staircase, which once led into the water, was also dismantled and the small restaurant is empty.

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Further north, the town of Agulo is located high above the sea. The old town is very well maintained with a total of detached houses with red tile roofs, but also with many vegetable gardens.

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On the square in front of the San Marcos Church be the night before St. Marko (24. April) lit large Sandelholzfeuer, jump over the especially the young men vied. We left it rather less sporty at the planned walk and returned before heading into the bar on the main road. Here too…..Weekend mood! The men were sitting together over wine and one way or another cigar was smoked. Auf ortsfremde Gäste war man eigentlich gar nicht eingestellt 🙂

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Before we started our way back across the island by the Garajonay National Park, we visited the visitor center Juego de Bolas Las Rosas. Here you can get interesting information about the island and the National Park and can arrange tours.

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To the visitor center around a large garden is, in which are found many plants of the flora of La Gomera.

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It was particularly interesting for us but the area, in the old traditional crafts and skills of the islanders were explained in detail. An example is "El Silbo", The whistling language of La Gomera, which developed due to the difficulties of communication in the mountainous landscape of the island. So that they will not be lost, it is now available in the schools again as an additional course and enjoys great popularity.

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The way back through the laurel forest, originates in the cloud forest Terziär, was really great. More than 20 different tree species, 18 Ferns and 120 Shrubs and herbs form part of an almost impenetrable thicket.

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The whole day it was quite hazy, but in the afternoon, the view was adopted complet. So we were much earlier than expected at the port, as a lookout point with no prospect does not really invites you to linger. So the cake in the morning bought was used and we observed a cup of coffee from the SUMMER of, as well as San Sebastian disappeared behind a thick veil.

Canarian sailing weather like in a picture book

We had even waited until Saturday, so that we would have quiet sailing weather for the trip to Tenerife. We were able to further postpone our departure but not, because for the next Monday we were expecting love visiting the SUMMER. Our "Uncle Tom". We were going to personally pick up from airport.

Before we loswarfen the lines in Tazacorte, We take this opportunity two kilos freshly caught tuna to buy directly from fishermen in the Marina. That would certainly be missing us in Tenerife, just like the many wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables.

About nine clock we were traveling as planned at sea. In bright sunshine, the wind in the sails hip cover the island had to wait a little to be. But then again it was, as if someone had flipped a switch. We could see far ahead of the white foam on the waves and refften our sailing time a strong. As it turned out a short time later, it was a very good decision. In the next few hours continuously ruled wind strength 7-8 with 28 to 35 Node. In some gusts of wind meter even showed up 42 Knoten an. The sea was boiling and had an unpleasant short, constructed steep wave. Dietmar had "gentlemen like" taken over the helm and was washed through soon to his underwear with salt water. Later he changed then its fair-weather clothing for months for the first time again against oilskins a. The need but really no one! I had folded me in the cockpit in the only dry corner to save space and was excited about the effect of Scorpoderm-patch against seasickness. Even if the weather conditions did not inspire me particularly, seekrank wurde so ich wenigstens nicht 🙂

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Two nautical miles from our destination Valle La Gomera was the nightmare again just as quickly by, as he had come.

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We were looking for a quiet anchorage and enjoyed after rough day at sea for supper fresh tuna from La Palma as Cappachio. After a hard day of sailing before ten clock went on the SUMMER off all the lights. After all, tomorrow it would probably be similar to strenuous.

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Sunday started exactly the same way before Saturday. Even from land cover out we could see the whitecaps of partially breaking waves south of Gomera see. So we refften mainsail and jib and prepared ourselves for the next salt water showers. Which could then not long in coming and talked the next two hours with up to 37 Node on your toes. Then suddenly there was lull. Sub machine continuously dried our SUMMER slowly back and made it everywhere thick salt crust. So a mess, poor SUMMER! But the ship should not remain dry until Marina San Miguel. As soon as we drove around the southern tip of Tenerife around, we got back strongly suggesting the nose. We fought the last ten miles back against increasingly strong wind and waves ever higher. All "Three" (SUMMER and we) had really sick and tired. The water is just not hot enough, the salt water showers to enjoy a welcome refreshment.

In the port our first Summer got an extensive freshwater shower, they had earned honestly and in the last two days. Have as much wind and wave also buffeted Regardless us, our SUMMER has always done a great job and gave us a good feeling.

The rest of the evening we spent with our dear French friends Annick and Louis of the SY TAMARIN. Unfortunately we already left the two of them tomorrow to Lanzarote. But our paths will cross again in the coming months. Wir haben uns für Juni/Juli auf den Azoren zum Dinner verabredet 🙂

Too little time ?!?

Tomorrow we sail back to Tenerife and felt we have far too little time for the beautiful island of La Palma had. Because of the many hours under water was our "Country Time" just unfortunately somewhat limited.

Nevertheless, we have still made some small trips.

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We visited on Wednesday the southern tip of the island with your volcanic craters, Lighthouses and the old but still in operation in Saline.

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Here are the wind was blowing so hard in the face, that running a real challenge was.

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The sea was quite of his wild side and we were glad at least for today, to have solid ground under their feet and our SUMMER sure to know the port.

On Thursday I went to Dietmar immersion test off alone and explored the surrounding area of ​​the port, Dietmar while in the boat again at resolving outstanding issues - "We have water in the bilge, especially during sail in heavy seas "- worked.

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Located next to the Marina is Tazacorte on a wide, black sand beach in front of a beautiful and colorful town scenery. Directly behind the cliffs rise 600 Meters in height with many natural caves. These were, until it banned the island government, inhabited by "alternative" or "hippies". Since the banning all inputs are blocked with cast solid steel bars.

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Nevertheless, it was an interesting visit and the view from up there was amazing.

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It was determined to endure great. Although I prefer not to think so hard about, how so many people together in such a small space without water (and without wastewater) gelebt haben 🙂

Then I made a trip to Tazacorte. Almost every day we are driven through the little town, to pay more attention without her.

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It can still be found right in the center in open banana plantations old farm houses. I for one was glad, that I had not taken this time.

Friday was our last day on the island. Accordingly long was our "to-do" list. Or a last visit. Shopping in the diving school we wanted to combine with a visit to the doctor recommended by Veronika, should exhibit us a new diving efficiency certificate. Then we have enjoyed a great breakfast at "Steffi", owns the Creperie right next to the dive center.

We went to Santa Cruz. From the capital we had during the Carnival days actually only seen the harbor, before we began the flight.

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Good, we were again returned. In the old town is a beautifully restored house next to the neighbor. Many stores offer jewelry and crafts at. Even fancy clothes as typical of La Palma linen pants and beautiful, colorful clothes you can buy here. Since I could not resist and had access to the boat despite the limited space. Two new clothes and a pair of pants hiked in my backpack. Natürlich erst nachdem sie bezahlt waren 🙂

On the way back across the island we made a trip to the National Park Caldera de Taburiente.

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By car you can very easily reach the viewpoint "La Cumbrecita". From there, you have an impressive view of the Caldera de Taburiente, a huge volcanic crater, whose walls up to 2000 Meters high. 1954 the area was declared a nature reserve. Therefore, no roads also run through the crater. Just walking on many, sometimes very challenging hiking trails you can explore the crater precisely.

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Diving tired

The past few days we spent felt rather below than above water. Dietmar La Palma wanted to leave with a passed examination for "Rescue Diver" and I wanted my dives for the "Advanced Open Water Diver" (AOWD) graduate.

So we emerged on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday to us on Wednesday, the weather took a spanner in the works. Between dives and at night we had to continue their education in theory, where Dietmars course was still much higher than those of my.

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In contrast to the AOWD must be, to become a Rescue Diver, pass a practical examination Learned. This should take place on Thursday in the outer harbor of our Marina. Veronika, the owner of the diving school "La Palma Diving", wanted here anyway even perform a dive and explore the underwater world from the Marina. Thus, it was obvious to, To examine Dietmar right there.

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In all equally unknown waters he first had a missing diver (Veronika) find with compass and using search patterns, then bring to the surface, exempt from the equipment, drag toward the shore, while all 5 Sekunden per Maske beatmen, remove to the country and there Resurrect. Veronika hat es auch tatsächlich überlebt 🙂

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The practice also pursued even a written examination. As I sat with the others in the harbor restaurant already at the lunch table, Dietmar could still have fun with the questionnaire. But soon he had his food deserved and we could all congratulate him on passing the test. Now I need me to definitely spend less time worrying about my safety, since I am a rescue diver by my side white. I only hope, dass er mich nicht eines Tages loswerden will 🙂

A sad occasion?!

Tonight was for us the carnival for 2015 in the Canaries finally over. Dietmar had to endure one last event. Namely the "Burial of the Sardine".

The Burial of the Sardine is a big festival in Spain and traditionally symbolizes the end of Carnival and the beginning of Lent on Ash Wednesday. The focus is on a huge colorfully decorated fish figure from paper mache and fabric, in a procession of torch-bearers, wailing widows and mourners accompanied in mourning is carried through the streets. The festival ends, when the fish figurine is finally lit. With the burning of the figure is generally a large fireworks display. (free by Wikipedia)

According to the Internet should this take place against seven clock. Still without rental car we took the bus to Los Llanos, lead us to the unbeatable price of 2,74 € (for two) brought in a quarter of an hour in the Old Town.

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Since we did not know exactly, exactly where the funeral was to take place, we visited only public carnival fairground. On stage, played in our ears cruel scenes from. A lady sang loud and obliquely some kind of pop music. We quickly ran away. From the "Sardine" there was nothing had happened to see.

Still, could be felt, that today something was going to happen. Significantly more people than usual at this time were out on the town. On the big board at the "Plaza de Espana" While we were able to decipher, that the sardine would still worn only at half past nine to the grave, Unfortunately, we were left the scene of the action but still a mystery. So I tried something first to buy time and Dietmar invited to a Baraquito a. As most of it was in the evening in the city quite fresh, if(n) in kurzen Hosen unterwegs ist 🙂 und bis halb zehn war leider noch etwas Zeit.

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Dietmar was visibly pleased, that it was the last carnival company of the year, and was brave. And eventually they appeared really to: The long-awaited Sardine.

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The procession was led by a police officer with flashing lights on the bike, then followed a great car the Sardine: colorful painted, determined two meters high and made of papier mache.

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It was followed by the "mourners", black-clad men and women in costumes, the wailing and mourning.

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More and more people joined the procession and we followed the funeral procession. So we came through the old town to the place of the actual events. The crowd had to stay behind barricades and away we witnessed the cremation, which ended with a very nice fireworks.

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For us, a very successful conclusion, slowly because it gave me even. The palmeros celebrate but two days more, bevor der Karneval auch hier endlich zu Ende gehen wird 🙂

Contrast program

Since not all of life revolves around the Carnival, even if one comes from the Rhineland, We wanted to see us today in the north of the island, the almond blossom.

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Due to the harsh weather another dive was not in question. Still a strong wind and high waves made a safe trip to the underwater world impossible. Very sad, since the first course dives were planned and there was a lot to learn new.

So we wound our nearly five hours along the northwest coast on small winding roads through the mountains. The blossoming almond trees smelled very strongly of honey and every photo stop was also a real treat for the nose. Just in time for radio round to 14:30 but we were back on the SUMMER, because the weather forecast to our friends at sea so would not convey by themselves. To support good friends on your voyages, Dietmar is very important.

After the trip to the enchanting nature stood as a contrast by five clock "Corso de Carnival" in Los Llanos. Since in the Canaries is rather cozy and equipped by all fixed dates are usually rather viewed as a rough guide, we went just before five on the way. After a lengthy car park we came quarter past five in place to, where the train should start. As already suggested, but was still nothing happened. 🙂 So konnten wir noch in Ruhe einen Platz in der ersten Reihe suchen, which gave us the best view on the way, the'd take the train.

More than an hour lasted the Corso, where we met again next several great samba music groups, the Samba dance groups from last week.

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For me, the children's carnival queen were, the adult carnival queen and all non crowned contenders the real highlights of the event.

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The imaginative costumes, who wore the ladies, were significantly longer than two meters wide, low and high. So the ladies can even move so, the costume is built on a base with castors. To march such a long way with the heavy costumes is impossible with the best will. As always, the four beauties were loaded together on the back of a large lorries. So they stay up and can not fall they had fixed easily on all sides with sturdy wire on the truck :-)!

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Dia de los Indianos

Santa Cruz de La Palma has a very special carnival tradition, we do not want to miss. "The Carnival Monday is fully dedicated to the emigrants, returning from overseas in their white suits as a symbol of their new wealth in the home. On this day Sprinkle each other with talcum powder (or baby powder), bis alle weiße Anzüge tragen.“ – so schrieb es unser Reiseführer 🙂

Dietmar got the whole "Powder history" from the beginning very critical. As Hamburger its carnival passion is anyway not particularly remarkable, der Reinländer ist da doch deutlich mehr experimentierfreudig 🙂

But somehow I succeeded, to motivate him so far, that we were quite early on Monday morning in the car to Santa Cruz. Would start the show with the arrival of a ship with the "Moors" on board. The figure "La Negra Tomasa" was 1992 von Victor Lorenzo Diaz Molina, called Soso, launched and is now an integral part of the "Día de los Indias". The figure represents the mixture of black and white in the Cuban culture.

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At the port, a crowd had already gathered. We quickly had to find, that wearing white clothes was mandatory. Unfortunately, my motivational skills were not in the morning but have been so far successful, we also costumes were traveling. Now we felt in our colorful clothes almost like the animals in the zoo, aber das ließ sich jetzt auch nicht mehr ändern 🙂

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In my imagination, I awaited the arrival of the Moors with a large and imposing ship, that borrows heavily from the old ships, which formerly was the Atlantic crossing. So I was quite surprised, when a little later a small white boat approached the port.

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This arose from the Moor, The withdrew a really great show and definitely something brought the crowd together with the Samba drummers boil.

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So the train started moving towards the city center, raged in the streets already numerous battles powder. On every street stall you could not just cocktails and beer, but also buy large cans of baby powder. But particularly startling was the powder guns, large amounts could shoot powder over the crowds.

The Dietmar was then too colorful or rather to know so we had to beat a retreat. Clean and without "powder damage" we reached our car and quickly searched the length. On our way across the island but we realized, that we had only seen the beginning of the Spectacle. A bus to the neighbor, crowded with white-clad party animals, came to meet us and the west side of the island must have been terrifying afternoon but empty, because only tourists and Carnival muffle sought refuge here.

To complete I have a few pictures from the internet used. Maybe it was better, that we are gone. Vielleicht wären wir sonst an einer Babypudervergiftung zugrunde gegangen 🙂

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A day in the markets

On Saturday night we got from the nice and unfortunately unknown young lady the tip, to look at the farmers market in Los Llanos on Sunday morning by. For there you would get fresh fruits and vegetables directly from the island, harvested ripe and not transported far. That we sure did not want to miss and went after breakfast on the way.

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At the half-way route we came unexpectedly into a kind of traffic jam. An Island ratios surprisingly large amount of cars was apparently looking for a parking space. The lucky ones, her car had already gotten rid of, flocked determined by a large gate and thus disappeared from our sight. What was going on here? Were curious as we, we changed our plans immediately. We stopped and parked our car in a side street off. A little later we found ourselves on a large artisans- and flea market.

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Dietmar I really fell for the glassblowing, in a glass-makers worked at the glass melting furnace. He quickly got out of there this week and it turned, that they had not only visited both the same in Wertheim vocational school, but there had acquaintances in common. Die Welt ist klein und die „Glasbläser-Welt“ ist anscheinend noch kleiner 🙂

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After the first visit to the market we were only really in shopping mood and drove on to the farmer's market, as it was originally planned. Although it had become quite late, the offer was still huge and the quality convincing. So hiked two kilos of oranges (1a quality 1 € for Kilo), a cauliflower and lettuce in our basket.

Until the daily radio round at half past two a little time remained for us, we used for a trip to the viewpoint "El Time" directly above the port.

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So we were back to the ship on time and as agreed to put Dietmar 14:30 UTC contact via shortwave on 22.159 Mhz for yacht MAYA on the way from Cape Verde by Barbedos and SY BELOW SEA in the Caribbean ago. Dietmar had made it their task, to supply the two yachts on the long crossing to the Caribbean with weather information and to ask for being on board. In addition, the families and friends of the crews were happy, if he has passed the greetings of the sailors by email to them.